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Japan is proud of its bathing traditions. For many Westerners, though, the fact that these traditions involve being naked with strangers is awkward at best, even though men and women bathe separately. On my first trip I tried to wriggle out of a friend's offer to take me to an onsen, or hot springs resort.

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In fact I think the best time to be nude is when you have a lot of clothes on, and maybe a coat. So to strip off and bathe in front of a bunch of old Japanese dudes, not to mention a few of my fellow travellers with whom I shared miso soup earlier and would have to make small talk with for the next 10 days, filled me with the sort of apprehension that weirdly manifests in hearty bravado ie. It was great!

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A wild boar scurries in front of our tiny Toyota Vitz on the dark road. We avoid a clash but proceed up the mountain with caution, tires slipping on the ice. Shikisai Ichiriki is a large hotel near Koriyama City, about 50 miles from where a tsunami and earthquake destroyed a nuclear plant and thousands of lives on the coast.

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Along with visiting the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, spending time at a Japanese onsen public bath, hot spring was a popular recommendation when I was asking for advice on Twitter and Facebook before my trip. I quickly discovered through this feedback that the Japanese traditionally do not wear bathing suits when using the onsens. Finding this out in advance gave me a little time to mentally prepare for my first nude, public bathing experience. While Couchsurfing in TokyoI met an Australian who had spent time snowboarding in the northern mountains, and he talked fondly of his visits to the onsens, painting a picture of hanging out in the hot springs as snow gently fell from the sky, and having snowball fights naked, I presume.

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We answer questions for first-timers and highlight five hot springs for you to get "eau naturale" during your fall and winter travels. Onsen locales satiate the Japanese craving for deep nature and require that extra bit of trip planning. Fully immersing myself in a day trip or a weekend getaway has stuck in my memory for life and is a very big payoff for a little legwork.

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For full functionality of this site it is necessary to enable JavaScript. Here are the instructions how to enable JavaScript in your web browser. Regular visitors to Japan will know all about onsen.

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As a volcanically active country, Japan has thousands of onsens scattered throughout all of its major islands. Traditionally, onsens were located outdoors, although a large number of inns have now built indoor bathing facilities as well. The practice had contributed at the time to Western ideas of the Japanese as an inferior race.

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I was 20 the first time I was invited to get naked in the company of other men. I was in Fukuoka, Japan, accompanying my parents to a conference, and we had been invited to a fancy dinner by the professor who was hosting us. Before the formal kaiseki meal, our host and his colleagues — nearly all of whom were men — planned to bathe together before changing into bathrobes for the meal. But when we were asked to arrive early for a dip, my father and I exchanged a quick glance of terror.

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Rain drops fall, bouncing off the surface of the steaming, open-air pool. Up to my neck in hot water, I turn my gaze to the left see roughly hewn boulders and mini Cyprus trees flanking the water — a makeshift Zen garden of sorts. There's a chill in the air, which makes the scalding temperature of the mineral-infused waters more bearable.

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This is art. And both men and women are buying it. The question seems to be, how much is it OK to show? Sentoor public bath houses, are as much a part of Japanese culture as chopsticks.


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